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By
Idris Tawfiq
Egypt sees millions of visitors every year. They come
from all over the world for the sunshine and for the warmth and
hospitality of the Egyptian people.They come, too, for the vast
array of monuments and tourist sights at their disposal.
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The Citadel of Salah Ad-Din |
There is so much for the visitor to see in Cairo alone. The Pyramids
and the Egyptian Museum, with its treasures from the tomb of the
boy-king, Tutankhamun, could entertain visitors for the greater part
of their stay.
The wealth of riches and historic treasures, too, from the city's
Islamic past are the envy of many nations. Each of these monuments
in its own right would grace any other capital city in the world.
The Citadel of
Salah Ad-Din, for example, stands out as a giant among the other
monuments. It dominates the city's skyline because of the great
mosque built there by Mohammed Ali between 1830 and 1848.
On almost every tourist itinerary, a visit to the Citadel could
easily take the best part of a day, with its mosques, museums, and
palaces, and there would still be more left over to see on other
visits. For example, although many of the Mamluk buildings were
demolished in Mohamed Ali's reordering of the Citadel to make way
for his mosque and palaces, the mosque of Sultan Al-Nasir Mohamed,
built between 1318 and 1335, still attracts visitors and remains a
superb example of Mamluk architecture.
There is, however,
within the precincts of the Citadel a building that very often goes
unnoticed by the throngs of visitors who come there every day in
coach loads. Situated at the very back of the Northern Enclosure and
far away from the cafes and the main attractions that visitors have
come to see, the small Mosque of Suleiman Pasha is often ignored.
And what a mistake that is! This Mosque of Suleiman Pasha is a real
delight and is one of Cairo's hidden gems. To miss it on a visit to
the Citadel is to miss something really beautiful.
The first Ottoman
mosque to be constructed in Egypt, it was built by Suleiman Pasha in
1528. "Pasha" was originally the title given by the Sultan to a
governor of a province of the Ottoman Empire.
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Suleiman Pasha
Mosque from inside. |
Suleiman Pasha was
Governor of Egypt from 1524 to 1534, and he built his mosque to
serve the Janissary regiment, the elite corps of Ottoman troops who
were garrisoned in the Citadel and who had come to Cairo only eleven
years ago when Egypt became a province of the Ottoman Empire.
Built in
honey-colored stone with a Turkish central dome and a cluster of
smaller domes, the mosque has a distinctly Ottoman, pencil-style
minaret. It is a lovely example of Ottoman provincial architecture.
The interior of the mosque is quiet and still.
Recently, lovingly
restored by a young local artist, the mosque's interior is an
intricate texture of shapes and colors. Deep blues and greens in the
arabesque patterns of the ceiling are complemented by golden texts
from the holy Qur'an and by beautifully carved woodwork. The dome
and upper part of the walls are painted to look like Turkish
ceramics, while the lower part of the walls is covered in patterned
marble.
Outside the prayer
hall, there is a small courtyard with a beautifully tiled floor, and
across from this there is the tomb of Sidi Saraya, dating from
Fatimid times. We also find the Janissary officers' tombs, which are
marked by their official headdress carved in stone.
The Mosque of Suleiman Pasha is truly a hidden gem, but it also has
a lesson to teach us. In many ways this is what happens in life,
isn’t it? People of importance seem to grab the spotlight, whilst
ordinary folk are often ignored as being of no significance.
However, it is often not the grand and the monumental things in life
which leave the lasting impression on our hearts. It isn’t always
the most attractive things which have the most lasting effect. Very
often it is the simple things which affect us most profoundly.
In the shadow of the imposing mosque of Mohamed Ali, this smaller
mosque is often forgotten. Away from the bustle of life, the little
Mosque of Suleiman Pasha takes us by surprise. It is clearly a place
that has been made holy through the centuries by the prayers of many
people. And it calls us, too, to pause for a moment and to pray. Our
lives need not be grand and important for us to have an impact on
others. Even the smallest act of kindness can have a lasting effect.
The Mosque of
Suleiman Pasha not only teaches us things about the great history of
Islam, but it also asks us to pause for a while amid the hustle and
bustle of life and to spare a thought for our Creator.
Idris
Tawfiq is
a British writer who became a Muslim in 2000. For many years, he was
head of religious education in different schools in the United
Kingdom. Before embracing Islam, he was a Roman Catholic priest. He
now lives in Egypt.
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